Stories and legends still surround the origins of the village. According to local folklore, San Juan once stood in the now vanished village of Ligüés, on the other side of the river. The story says its inhabitants were forced to abandon it after an invasion of “lacuercos”, mythical snake-like creatures from the valley’s ancient tales.
Today, the village stretches down the mountainside from the “cabo el lugá” — “the end of the village” in chistabín — all the way to the banks of the Cinqueta River. Until not so long ago, its rocky riverbank was the place where the women of San Juan gathered each year to wash heavy winter blankets and household linen.
A pleasant one-kilometre walk with barely any elevation connects San Chuan to the neighbouring village of Plan, following the banks of the river.
You can’t really talk about San Chuan — or understand it — without mentioning “La Falleta”. During this ancestral celebration, held on the night of San Juan, a great bonfire is lit high up in the mountains. From it, the “tiedas” are set alight: traditional wooden torches carried down the ancient path to the village, creating a huge serpent of fire winding through the darkness for those watching from the village.
Declared UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2015, La Falleta is only the beginning of several days dedicated to celebrating Chistabín culture. In the days that follow, traditions such as the San Chuan circle dances and the “Day of Traditional Dress” take centre stage — both lovingly brought back to life by the women of the village. Truly unmissable.
